Eating your skincare: TCM ingredients for radiant skin

As the harsh dry winter of Hong Kong encroaches, it’s likely your skin has started to protest - dryness, flaking, redness and breakouts are common during this time of year. 

Our precious skin is our first point of contact with our surroundings, and serves both as a barrier and a connection between the outside world and the internal microscopic world of the body. It’s selectively permeable, allowing some molecules to enter the body if they have specific qualities - you can think of your skin as your personal bodyguard. 

But, when your skin is broken by a scrape or cut, you’re exposed to external threats like bacteria and other pathogens which can then enter your body and cause harm.

Communication is constantly being exchanged via chemical signalling pathways, and this connection goes both ways. Often your skin will display what’s going on beneath the surface - symptoms of poor skin health indicate that your body isn’t quite in balance. 

The skin microbiome and intestinal microbiome are deeply connected through the interweaving immune and inflammatory pathways of the gut-skin axis. Poor immunity and poor gut health can cause problems like puffy skin, dryness or spots.

And these aren’t the only factors. Hormonal imbalances can cause excess androgens, leading to an overproduction of oil and spots. Problems like oxidative stress, caused by exposure to pollutants are also linked to dry flaky skin, spots and other skin issues.

Instead of immediately turning to skincare products to try and fight skin problems, your diet can touch the deepest layers of your body - healing you from the inside out.

A balanced diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants can help combat skin issues such as dryness, spots, and premature aging. Foods that are high in omega-3 fatty acids, vitamins A, C, D, E, can enhance skin elasticity, hydration, and radiance.

My favourite scientifically backed ingredients have been used historically in Chinese medicine and eaten in line with the seasons and climate to nourish your skin.

Snow mushrooms

Snow mushrooms have a long history of traditional use in Chinese medicine due to their many bioactive compounds - elements which convey health benefits. In ancient times, snow mushrooms were only reserved for royalty and high ranking nobles because they were so valuable!

The polysaccharides, most notably beta-glucans, play a key role in skin health by modulating immune response, supporting a healthy inflammatory response, retaining moisture and reducing hyperpigmentation by whitening the skin.

Hyperpigmentation is an increase in the pigment melanin, which can create patches of darker skin on your face, or other parts of your body. It’s sometimes caused by aging, sun damage, spots and hormonal changes. People with darker skin tones experience more hyperpigmentation naturally on places like their neck, around their nose and mouth or under their arms, and they often struggle to heal hyperpigmentation from spots. While the beauty standard may demand perfect, even skin - this does not mean it is ‘right’ or should not be critiqued. All skin tones are beautiful and none are more attractive than any other.

However, if targeting hyperpigmentation is one of your skin goals, snow mushrooms are a safe and natural way to lighten dark patches from hyperpigmentation and promote a smooth, even skin tone. Many other skin whitening products contain toxic ingredients like mercury and hydroquinone which are harmful to your health.

Snow mushrooms also contain phenolic compounds which have been found to enhance the skin's defences through their antioxidant properties, nourishing skin and preventing sagging.

Chitin enhances collagen synthesis and improves wound healing leading to smoother, younger-looking skin with fewer wrinkles. 
Snow mushrooms have additional benefits for heart health and may help lower cholesterol, support weight loss and protect your nerve health. 
This superfood, packed with vitamins and minerals (including vitamin D), has been found to be safe and effective when consumed orally or applied topically in skin care products, even for those with sensitive skin. (Keep reading to try my favorite snow mushroom recipe below.)

Peach gum

Peach gum is a natural amber colored resin secreted by the peach tree. It has been traditionally used in Chinese medicine for health and beauty, and heals skin problems like dryness, while supporting digestive factors that lead to skin problems. It acts as a prebiotic, feeding the good bacteria in your gut, and helps heal leaky gut - which often plays a major factor in skin issues.

It has been shown to protect from UV-induced skin damage and aging due to its antioxidant effects, as well as improve collagen synthesis. 
The ceramides found in peach gum have been shown to heal the skin barrier, improve moisture in the skin and decrease water loss. 
Additionally, the polysaccharides and monosaccharides have anti-aging, immunomodulating, anti-cholesterol and blood sugar lowering properties.

Peach gum can be turned into a dessert soup, or used as a healthy alternative to pearls in bubble tea.

Peach gum has a ‘cooling’ effect in Traditional Chinese Medicine. Depending on your constitution, it may be too cooling during menstruation or pregnancy, especially if eaten in large quantities. Though no adverse effects have been noted in studies, you should seek advice from a naturopathic doctor or Chinese Medicine practitioner to confirm whether this is the right ingredient for you.

Fish maw

Fish maw is the part of the fish that fills with air, supporting buoyancy - it’s called a swim bladder, but has nothing to do with the urinary system. It’s a great source of protein, vitamins A, D, E, and minerals important to skin cell regeneration. One serving of fish maw can contain up to 15g of Type I collagen, the same kind found in our skin.

Traditionally, it has been used to treat digestive issues, skin problems and respiratory health. But in modern studies, it has been found to improve skin texture, elasticity and hydration while reducing wrinkles. The collagen content also helps support joint health and bone strength.
Studies have shown it to be safe to consume regularly. You can add it to soups or stews to lubricate joints and hydrate skin.

Chinese mountain yam

Chinese yam has been a staple tonic herb in Traditional Chinese Medicine for centuries, benefiting the spleen, lung, and kidney.

It's full of protein, minerals, and vitamin C which helps with wound healing, energy, and metabolism.

The antioxidant polysaccharides have anti-aging properties, and support healthy immune and inflammatory responses.

Allantoin and saponins improve collagen synthesis and can regulate women’s hormones (which play a role in skin health) without the need for hormonal intervention.

Chinese yam has also been shown to restore balance of intestinal microbes by increasing growth of beneficial bacteria while inhibiting growth of harmful bacteria.

While Chinese yam is generally safe to consume regularly, nutritional herbal soups can be specially formulated to each person's constitution by a naturopathic doctor or Traditional Chinese Medicine doctor for personalized healing.

Mung beans

Mung beans are a commonly consumed legume in many cultures due to their high levels of protein, vitamins, minerals and healthy ratio of omega 6 to omega 3. 

They possess antioxidant, antibacterial and cholesterol-lowering properties because of these nutrients and their bioactive compounds.

In traditional Chinese medicine, mung beans are used for clearing heat, regulating water, and eliminating toxins which make them very suitable for combatting heat related skin issues. You’ll know if you have a heat-related skin problem because it will show up red on your skin - like spots, or dry skin conditions.

Polysaccharides and polyphenols have been shown to improve skin moisture, reduce wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and age spots by decreasing production of melanin pigmentation.

Digestive enzymes and processes in the body can naturally inhibit some of the benefits of mung beans, but if the beans are sprouted or fermented before consumption, these disadvantages can be largely eliminated.

Recent studies have found that they have significant effects on the growth of beneficial bacteria in the digestive tract as well.

Mung beans have been found to be safe to consume regularly except for a select few, for whom they may be too cooling in large quantities - a TCM practitioner or naturopathic doctor can confirm if they’re suitable for your constitution. Sprout them and add them to stews, curries, patties or sweet treats.

Snow mushroom dessert soup

Hydration is key to healthy skin in the winter. Our skin is 70% water, so drinking water and consuming water-rich foods can help maintain that plump moist feeling in the skin and flush out toxins. Soups are a great way to incorporate some of the ingredients above while hydrating.

Ingredients:
·       1 head of fresh snow mushroom (if dried, rehydrate)
·       1 Asian pear (chopped)
·       2-3 Chinese red dates (pitted and halved)
·       15g rock sugar (or to taste)
·       1-2tsp dried goji berries
 

Instructions:
1.      Trim away the hard yellow parts.of the snow mushroom and tear into bite-sized pieces
2.      Add snow mushroom, Asian pear, and red dates to a double boiler, ceramic pot or ceramic slow cooker. Add enough water to comfortably cover ingredients (1-1.5L depending on the size).
3.      Bring to a boil, and then simmer on lower heat for 2 hours until ingredients are softening. Add rock sugar if needed to taste.
4.      Add goji berries to the soup and simmer for 10 minutes before consuming.
5.     Most people can enjoy this recipe  daily in the winter - but it’s best to have your constitution checked by a naturopathic doctor or TCM practitioner

In summary

Nourishing your skin from the inside out is a holistic approach that can lead to lasting beauty.

While topical skincare products may temporarily alleviate issues such as dryness, redness, and spots, the problem will likely come back once you stop applying the product.

By incorporating nutrient-dense foods traditionally used in Chinese medicine into your diet and your skincare routine, you can enhance your skin's health and radiance from the inside out.

However, what's most important is finding and treating the root cause of your skin issues so that the problems don't keep coming back after being suppressed or calmed temporarily.

Beautiful skin begins with what you put on your plate and in your body. Embrace these natural skincare practices, and watch your skin transform into a vibrant reflection of your inner health.

References
N V Anil Kumar et al, Potential of mushrooms bioactive for the treatment of skin diseases and disorders, 2023.
K Sanhke, T Khan, Snow Ear (Tremella fuciformis), 2023.
M Hesam Shahrajabian, W Sun, H Shen, Q Cheng, Chemical compounds and health benefits of Tremella, a valued mushroom as both cuisine and medicine in ancient China and modern era, 2020.
M Yang et al, The mechanism of peach gum polysaccharide preventing UVB-induced skin photoaging by regulating matrix metalloproteinanse and oxidative factors, 2023.
C Shil Kwak et al, Topical or oral treatment of peach flower extract attenuates UV-induced epidermal thickening, matrix metalloproteinase-13 expression and pro-inflammatory cytokine production in hairless mice skin, 2018. 
T Koikeda et al, Effects of peach (Prunus persica)- derived glucosylceramide on the human skin, 2017.
T Wang et al, Synergistic antioxidant and anti-aging effects of Asnini Corii Colla combined with fish maw, 2025.
G Chen et al, Mechanism of Chinese yam for the treatment of aging-related diseases based on network pharmacology, 2021.
G Irughene Edo et al, An overview of the nutritional composition, bioactivities and applications of Chinese yam (Dioscoreas Oppositae), 2025. 
K Wei et al, The whitening, moisturising, anti-aging activities and skincare evaluation of selenium-enriched mung bean fermentation broth, 2022.